Tagged as: hydrangeas, Hydrangea
Hydrangeas for the Home Landscape
- Hydrangeas are available in a range of sizes and forms
- Most selections produce showy, long-lasting flower clusters
- Flowers may exhibit attractive color changes through the season as they mature
- Selections for the upper Midwest lose their leaves in the fall (deciduous), but often retain their dried flower clusters through the winter
- Selections are recommended for the Midwest on the basis of ornamental value, proven hardiness, availability, and freedom from serious problems
Uses in the Landscape
- Hydrangeas provide seasonal interest with their long-lasting flowers, from summer through winter, and, in some varieties, with stem color and fall foliage
- Selections are available as shrubs, small trees, and, in one case, a vine
- Selections are available that tolerate a range of full sun to shade
- Some selections are suitable as container plants (which can be over wintered, if desired, in an unheated attached garage or in a cool basement)
- Hydrangeas provide focal points in the landscape to be enjoyed as single specimens or in groups, in foundation plantings or in mixed borders
Factors to Consider
Ultimate Size
Consider the ultimate height and width of the plant you are selecting for your site based on proximity to walkways, driveways, patios, buildings, or surrounding plantings. Although most hydrangeas are relatively easy to remove or transplant at any age and size, and many can easily be pruned to maintain a desired size, it is easier to plan ahead and select a shrub with a mature size that suits the site.
Exposure
Hydrangeas grow best in soil that is evenly moist but well drained. The use of an organic mulch is recommended to help retain soil moisture. A hydrangea's leaves will often be the first in the yard to droop when the soil becomes dry, indicating the shrub's need for more moisture. In some selections, particularly the "bigleaf" hydrangeas, the leaves will droop in full sun on a very hot day even when the soil is moist, but will recover nicely once the shrub is again in shade.
Although a few selections require full sun for the best flower production, many perform well in either full sun or partial shade. Some selections perform best in partial shade (either dappled shade all day long, or full sun in the morning followed by afternoon shade). Heavy shade throughout the day can result in hydrangeas with little or no flowering and "leggy" growth (leaves sparsely or unevenly distributed along the stems), but which are otherwise healthy. Consult inside chart for further information.
Maintenance
Hydrangeas require relatively little maintenance. Attention to moisture, as discussed in the preceding section, and pruning are the primary concerns. Recommended pruning depends on the type of hydrangea:
Smooth Hydrangea (H. arborescens)-Prune established shrubs in late fall, winter, or early spring by removing the oldest stems or canes down to within a few inches of the ground. Flowers form on "new wood" (i.e., this year's flowers develop on this year's stem growth); therefore, pruning some or all of the canes to the ground in early spring does not hinder flower production that year. Thinning encourages the growth of new stem shoots from the ground, which often will have larger flower clusters and more numerous leaves that year than those produced on older stems. If desired, prune dried flower clusters from the previous year to tidy the plant in late winter or early spring, before new leaves emerge.- Panicled Hydrangea (H. paniculata)- To improve the shape or structure of the shrub and to reduce stem crowding, prune established plants by removing stems back to a main branch before new leaves emerge. Flowers form on this years' growth so even severe pruning in early spring will not prevent flower production later in the season. If desired, cut off dried flower clusters from the previous year to tidy the plant in late winter or early spring.
- Bigleaf Hydrangea (H. macrophylla) and Mountain Hydrangea (H. serrata)-In the upper Midwest, the only pruning these less-winter-hardy hydrangeas generally require is the removal of any canes, or portions thereof, that have died during the harsh weather of winter. Wait until new leaves have emerged on canes, or until new shoots have emerged from the ground, to cut away any dead canes or to trim away dead portions. In most selections, flowers form mainly on "old wood" (i.e., this year's flowers grow from flower or stem buds that developed on last year's stem growth); therefore, cutting off live branches in the spring could result in removing flower buds that might have survived the winter or any late-spring frosts. Consult the chart for bigleaf selections that are relatively bud-hardy in our region or that flower on "new wood." (Buds and canes of less-winter-hardy selections can be insulated somewhat against winter cold and spring frosts by mounding up the base of the plant with mulch in late fall or by tying up the canes in late fall, securing a wire cage around the plant, and filling the cage with shredded leaves, shredded bark mulch, or plastic bags filled with leaves. All insulation should be removed after last threat of spring frost.)
- Oakleaf Hydrangeas (H. quercifolia)-Prune any winter-killed stems in spring after new leaves have emerged, as with bigleaf hydrangeas. Prune established plants in summer after flowering to improve shape, but before buds for next year's flowers develop on the stems. Flowers form on "old wood," but buds are generally more cold hardy than in the bigleaf hydrangeas.
- Climbing Hydrangeas (H.petiolaris, H. anomala petiolaris)-Little pruning required, except for out of place branches. Flowers form on "old wood," but buds are relatively cold hardy. Emerging flowers, however, are susceptible to damage by late-spring frost. Attaches to surface by means of rootlets. Avoid using on aluminum siding because of weight.
Flowers
There are three general shapes of hydrangea flower clusters:
- Mopheads-Rounded, ponpom-like clusters of mainly infertile flowers (which do not produce seed capsules) having large, showy sepals (various selections of smooth and bigleaf hydrangeas)
- Lacecaps-Flat, or slightly rounded, clusters of numerous small, yet attractive, fertile flowers (which can produce small seed capsules), with infertile flowers and their large, showy sepals on the cluster's perimeter (various selections of smooth, bigleaf, and climbing hydrangeas)
- Panicles-Large conical or pyramidal clusters of showy infertile flowers interspersed with small fertile flowers (most selections of panicled and oakleaf hydrangeas)
Consult the chart for further information on specific selections. The flowers of almost all hydrangeas are suitable for use as cut flowers, either fresh or dried.
Flower color in all selections except the bigleaf hydrangeas is usually not dependent on soil chemistry. For bigleaf hydrangeas, the presence of aluminum in the soil and its availability to the root systems of the plants generally determines whether the flowers will be blue, pink, or shades in between. Aluminum is usually abundant in the alkaline, clayey soils of the upper Midwest, but is tightly bound to clay particles and, therefore, not available to be taken up by a plants roots. Bigleaf hydrangeas grown in alkaline soils will produce pink flowers.
Although a container-grown plant purchased from a nursery may develop blue flowers in its first season in the ground, the alkalinity of the soil into which the shrub is planted will eventually dominate without the periodic addition of soil acidifiers, leading to purplish or pink flowers in the future. To make aluminum in alkaline clay soils more water soluble and thereby encouraging the production of bluer flowers, these soils can be made less alkaline (more acidic) by adding acidifying agents, such as elemental sulfur or urea (available at garden centers), to the soil in the planting area.
Pests and Diseases
Hydrangeas are relatively insect-and disease-free. The most serious pests of hydrangeas are deer and rabbits. Deer will eat the flowers and stems at any time of year. Rabbits may eat new shoots in the spring and early summer or mature stems in winter. In overly moist situations, slugs may become pests on the foliage.
Most insect damage is usually aesthetic and not serious to the health of the plant. Japanese beetles may chew holes in some of the leaves of climbing and panicle hydrangeas. Sometimes new growth will attract sap-sucking aphids, which can be hosed off with water, deterred by applying a mild insecticidal soap, or simply ignored.
The most common fungal diseases affecting hydrangeas in the upper Midwest are anthracnose (which causes circular brown spots on leaves, usually appearing during hot, wet weather), powdery mildew (which causes a whitish leaf discoloration), and root rots (which cause the foliage to wilt suddenly, yellow, and fall off, and the roots to appear brownish, rather than a healthy whitish color). Anthracnose, powdery mildew, and other leaf-spotting fungal diseases are usually not serious problems and, if desired, can be kept in check with fungicide treatments. Because hydrangeas require excellent drainage, root rots are serious diseases that can be triggered by either too much water or by too little. Hydrangeas require evenly moist soil, high in organic matter, and excellent drainage.
Availability
If you have trouble finding a specific plant, contact The Morton Arboretum's Plant Clinic or Sterling Morton Library for catalog information.
| Botanical Name | Common Name | Height | Spread | Flower Color | Cultural/Comments |
| Smooth Hydrangeas | |||||
Hydrangea arborescens 'Abetwo'  |
Abetwo Wild Hydrangea - INCREDIBALL® | 4-5' | 4-5' | White | Part shade to sun, prefers moist soil and cool root environment |
| Hydrangea arborescens 'Annabelle' |
Annabelle Wild Hydrangea | 3-5' | 3-5' | White | Partial shade to full sun with adequate moisture; mopheads up to 12" wide appear in June, emerge green, turn white, age back to green, and then turn brownish; huge mopheads can cause stems to droop; flowers on new wood; spreads by suckering |
| Hydrangea arborescens 'Dardom' |
Dardom Wild Hydrangea - WHITE DOME® |
3-5' | 3-5' | White | Lacecaps 4-6" wide appear in June; flowers on new wood; suckering stems |
| Hydrangea arborescens 'Grandiflora' |
Hills of Snow Hydrangea | 3-5' | 3-5' | White | Mopheads up to 8" wide appear in June; flowers smaller than Annabelle, less likely to cause stems to droop; flowers on new wood; suckering stems |
| Hydrangea arborescens 'NCHA1' |
NCHA1 Wild Hydrangea - INVINCIBELLE™ Spirit |
3-4' | 3-4' | Rosy pink | Part shade to full sun with adequate moist soil, pH adaptable |
| Hydrangea radiata 'Samantha' |
Samantha Silver-leaved Hydrangea | 3-4' | 3-5' | Green changing to white | Full sun to part shade with adequate moisture; drought sensitive |
| Panicled Hydrangeas | |||||
| Hydrangea paniculata 'Bulk' |
Panicled Hydrangea - QUICK FIRE™ | 6-8' | 3-5' | White that matures to deep pink | Full sun to part shade with adequate moisture |
| Hydrangea paniculata 'DVP Pinky' |
Panicled Hydrangea-PINKY WINKY™ | 6-8' | 6-8' | White | Part shade to sun with adequate moisture; adaptable so soil pH |
| Hydrangea paniculata 'Grandiflora' |
Peegee Hydrangea |
8-10' | 8-10' | White | Full sun to partial shade; panicles 8-12" long appear in mid-July and age to shades of rose-red and then brown in fall; panicles have mainly sterile flowers; flowers on new wood; available in both shrub and tree form |
| Hydrangea paniculata 'Limelight' |
Limelight Panicled Hydrangea |
6-8' | 6-8' | Light green | Full sun; bright lime-green panicles 10-12" long appear in July; flowers on new wood, thin stems can be floppy |
| Hydrangea paniculata 'Little Lamb' |
Little Lamb Panicled Hydrangea | 4-6' | 4-6' | White | Full sun to part shade in rich, moist, well-drained soil |
| Hydrangea paniculata 'Pee Wee' |
Pee Wee Panicled Hydrangea |
6-8' | 6-8' | White | Full sun to partial shade; a smaller version of 'Grandiflora' |
| Hydrangea paniculata 'Pink Diamond' |
Pink Diamond Panicled Hydrangea |
5-6' | 5-6' | White | Full sun to partial shade; large, 10-12" long conical panicles appear in early July and age to rich pink; flowers on new wood; a seedling of 'Unique' |
| Hydrangea paniculata 'Praecox' |
Praecox Panicled Hydrangea | 10-15' | 18-20' | White | Full sun to partial shade; panicles up to 6" long appear in late June; hardier than 'Grandiflora'; flowers on old stout stems |
| Hydrangea paniculata 'Tardiva' |
Tardiva Panicled Hydrangea | 10-15' | 10-15' | White | Full sun to partial shade; white flowers in clusters 6 inches long; gradually change to pink in late summer; flowers on new wood |
| Hydrangea paniculata 'Unique' |
Unique Panicled Hydrangea | 10-12' | 5-6' | White | Full sun to partial shade; large, pure white, 12-16" panicles appear in July; flowers on new wood |
| Hydrangea paniculata 'HYPMADI' |
White Diamonds™ Panicled Hydrangea | 5-6' | 5-6' | White | Full sun to part shade, best in organic rich, moist, well-drained average soil |
| Bigleaf Hydrangeas | |||||
| Hydrangea macrophylla 'All Summer Beauty' |
All Summer Beauty big-leaved Hydrangea | 3-4' | 3-4' | Pink in alkaline soils; blue in acid soils | Partial shade or full sun with adequate moisture; mopheads up to 6" wide appear in June through September; flowers on both old and new wood; can be used in containers |
| Hydrangea macrophylla 'Bailday' |
Big-Leaved Hydrangea - LIGHT-O-DAY™ | 3-5' | 3-5' | Violet-blue in acid soil or violet-pink in alkaline soil | Prefers evenly moist, well-drained, humus-rich soil in full sun or partial shade; pH adaptable |
| Hydrangea macrophylla 'Bailmer' |
Big-leaved hydrangea - ENDLESS SUMMER® | 3-4' | 3-4' | Pink in alkaline soils; blue in acid soils | Partial shade or full sun with adequate moisture; mopheads up to 8" wide appear in June through September; flowers on both old and new wood; bronze foliage in fall; can be used in containers |
| Hydrangea macrophylla 'Blushing Bride' |
Blushing Bride Big-leaved Hydrangea - ENDLESS SUMMER® series | 3-5' | 3-5' | Pure white blooms maturing to pale pink | Full sun to part shade in evenly moist soil |
| Hydrangea macrophylla 'Nikko Blue' |
Nikko Blue Big-leaved Hydrangea | 3-5' | 3-5' | Pink in alkaline soils; blue in acid soils | Full sun to partial shade; mopheads up to 8" wide appear in June-July; flowers mainly on old wood, but a few flowers may be produced in late summer on new wood; winter protection needed |
| Hydrangea macrophylla 'Pia' |
Pia Big-leaved Hydrangea | 2-3' | 2-3' | Pink or red with white eye in alkaline soils | Full sun to partial shade; considered a dwarf form; mopheads up to 6" wide appear in June through September; flowers on old wood; winter protection needed; can be used in containers |
| Hydrangea macrophylla 'PIIHM-I' |
Big-leaved Hydrangea - TWIST-N-SHOUT™ ENDLESS SUMMER® series | 3-5' | 3-5' | Deep-pink lacecap flowers surrounded by pink or periwinkle blue sterile flowers | Best in part shade with moist, humid, rich soil |
| Hydrangea macrophylla 'Variegata' |
Variegated Big-leaved Hydrangea | 3-4' | 3-4' | Rosy pink in alkaline soils; blue in acid soils | Full sun to partial shade; variegated leaves with light and dark green areas and creamy or silvery-white margins; lacecaps up to 4" wide appear in June-July; flowers on old wood; winter protection may be needed; can be used in containers |
| Mountain Hydrangea | |||||
| Hydrangea serrata 'Blue Bird' |
Blue Bird mountain Hydrangea | 3-4' | 3-4' | Violet, blue and lavender, in alkaline soils; blue and pink in acid soils | Full sun to partial shade; lacecaps 3-4" wide appear in June-July; flowers on old wood; reddish-bronze foliage in fall; fairly bud hardy; may benefit from winter protection; can be used in containers |
| Hydrangea 'Preziosa' |
Preziosa mountain hydrangea | 3-4' | 3-4' | Pink flowers deepening to ruby red in alkaline soils; pinkish-purple in acid soils | Full sun to partial shade; mopheads 3-4" wide appear in July, emerge white, turn pink, and age to rosy, and finally turn crimson; flowers on old wood; dark purplish stems; bronze foliage in fall; may benefit from winter protection; can be used in containers |
| Hydrangea serrata 'Woodlander' |
Woodlander Hydrangea | 3-4' | 3-4' | Pink in alkaline soils; blue and purple in acidic soils |
Partial shade; lacecaps 3-4" wide appear in June-July; purplish cast to green leaves in sunnier sites and in fall; flowers on old wood; fairly bud and stem hardy but may benefit from winter protection; can be used in containers |
| Oakleaf Hydrangeas | |||||
| Hydrangea quercifolia |
Oak-leaved Hydrangea | 4-6' | 4-6' | White | Full sun to partial shade; panicles 4-12" long and 3-6" wide appear in late June and July; large oak-like leaves; cinnamon-brown peeling bark on older stems provides winter interest; reddish-brown and purple fall foliage; flowers on old wood; buds fairly hardy |
| Hydrangea quercifolia 'Alice' |
Alice Oak-Leaved Hydrangea | 4-6' | 4-6' | White gradually fading to pink | Best in organic, rich moist, well-drained soil in full sun to part shade |
| Hydrangea quercifolia 'Little Honey' |
Little Honey Oak-Leaved Hydrangea | 2-3' | 2-3' | White flowers with yellow leaves | Light sun to full shade, well-drained average soil |
| Hydrangea quercifolia 'Snowflake' |
Snowflake Oak-Leaved Hydrangea | 7-8' | 5-6' | White flowers that mature to purplish-pink | Part shade with adequate moisture |
| Hydrangea quercifolia 'Snow Queen' |
Snow Queen Oak-leaved Hydrangea | 4-6' | 4-6' | White | Full sun to partial shade; panicles 6-8" long appear in late June and July and age to pink; panicles have more sterile flowers than fertile compared with H. quercifolia and so are more dense in appearance; deep reddish-bronze fall foliage; peeling bark; flowers on old wood; buds fairly hardy |
| Hydrangea quercifolia 'Pee Wee' |
Pee Wee Dwarf Oak-leaved Hydrangea | 2-4' | 3-4' | White | Full sun to partial shade; smaller, more compact form with smaller leaves; panicles 4-5" long appear in late June and July; reddish-purple fall foliage; flowers on old wood; buds fairly hardy |
| Hydrangea quercifolia 'Sikes Dwarf' |
Sikes Dwarf Oak-leaved Hydrangea | 2-4' | 3-4' | White | Full sun to partial shade; similar to Pee Wee Hydrangea, but with larger panicles; flowers on old wood; buds fairly hardy |
| Climbing Hydrangeas | |||||
| Hydrangea petiolaris |
Climbing Hydrangea | 20-30' | White | Full sun to full shade; woody vine attaches firmly to rough surfaces (avoid aluminum siding) via root-like structures; lacecaps up to 6-10" wide are fragrant and appear in late May and June on secondary branches that do not attach to surfaces (3-dimensional); may take 2-5 years of growth before flowers appear; shiny dark-green leaves; peeling brown bark on older stems; flowers on old wood; buds hardy, but flowers susceptible to damage by late frosts; can also be grown as a free-standing shrub or as a ground cover | |
| Hydrangea petiolaris 'Miranda' |
Miranda Climbing Hydrangea | 30-50' | White | Full sun to part shade; variegated form, dark green leaves with yellow margins | |
| Schizophragma hydrangeoides |
Japanese Hydrangea-Vine | 20-30' | 6-9' | White | Part to full shade; woody vine attaches firmly to rough surfaces (avoid aluminum siding) via root-like structures; this vine stays flat, not 3-dimensional; lacecaps up to 8-10" wide with a slight tendency to droop and appear in late June-early July; peeling brown bark on older stems and dark green leaves; flowers on old wood. |
| Schizophragma hydrangeoides 'Moonlight' |
Moonlight Japanese Hydrangea-Vine | 20-30' | 6-9' | White | Pert to full shade; woody vine attaches firmly to rough surfaces (avoid aluminum siding) via root-like structures; this vine stays flat, not 3-dimensional; lacecaps up to 8-10" wide with a slight tendency to droop and appear in late June-early July; peeling brown bark on older stems; flowers on old wood. Leaves have a light, silver-gray mottling over the upper leaf surface. |
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